Introducing The DOXA SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee Limited Edition

Hodinkee’s first collaboration with DOXA reimagines the legendary 1969 Army aesthetic in the new, highly wearable 39mm SUB 200T case, limited to 250 pieces.

Hodinkee, the leading destination for all things watches, is thrilled to announce its very first collaboration with historic Swiss dive watch manufacturer DOXA. Together, the brands are launching the DOXA SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee Limited Edition — a thoughtful, enthusiast-driven reimagining of one of the most sought-after references in military watch collecting.

Limited to 250 pieces worldwide and retailing for $2,000 USD, the watch will be available exclusively through Hodinkee’s retail partner, Watches of Switzerland.

A Legendary Military Heritage

DOXA’s contributions to the world of dive watches are authentic and deep. In the late 1960s, DOXA introduced the brand’s iconic orange-dialed SUB 300T dive watch – purpose-built for the dark, murky waters of Alpine lakes and issued to the Swiss Army’s elite combat divers. In 1969, DOXA developed the “Army” in collaboration with the Swiss Army as a dedicated mil-spec dive watch, trading the SUB 300’s bright orange dial for a tan dial with a distinct “checkerboard” surround and oil-dipped black case.

Made in incredibly limited numbers and worn primarily by the support personnel attached to the combat divers unit, the surviving examples have become a legendary obsession among vintage collectors. The DOXA SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee is the first time the elusive Army aesthetic has been scaled down into DOXA’s new, highly wearable SUB 200T case.

The SUB 200T Case: Vintage Dimensions, Modern Wearability

Coming in at 39mm, the SUB 200T case drops the total footprint by roughly 10% compared to the vintage dimensions. It sits svelte, hugs the wrist, and slides easily under a cuff, making it the perfect daily tool watch. Crafted from robust 316L stainless steel, the raw metal finish pays a poetic visual tribute to the surviving vintage Army pieces, whose experimental black chemical coatings naturally wore down to raw steel after years of hard tactical service.

True to the original military spec, this bezel ditches the famous DOXA “no-deco” scale in favor of a standard 60-minute countdown track. And because it’s built on the streamlined SUB 200T architecture, the case omits a Helium Escape Valve to keep the profile as slim as possible, while still delivering a rock-solid 200 meters of water resistance.

A Nuanced Color Palette

For this collaborative edition, Hodinkee chose to soften the aggressive, stark black accents of the original military spec in favor of a more nuanced and subtle color palette. Up close, the dial features a rich, meticulously textured sand color, framed by a graphic checkerboard track and matching date wheel rendered in a soft, faded “Hodinkee Grey”.

That same faded grey extends to the anodized aluminum countdown bezel. In a brilliant bit of manufacturing craftsmanship, the minute markers were actually spared during the anodizing process. This means the raw, circularly brushed-aluminum texture peeks through from beneath, giving the bezel a true vintage feel. For a bit of vintage warmth, the etched numerals and orientation triangle are filled with Old Radium Super-LumiNova, while DOXA’s signature oversized orange hands provide that unmistakable, instant legibility.

The Movement

Beneath the dial beats a Swiss mechanical self-winding caliber decorated by DOXA, operating at 28,800 vph (4.0Hz) with a 38-hour power reserve. The movement features 26 jewels and is visible through the closed caseback with custom engraving.

A Collaboration That Honors History

The DOXA SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee Limited Edition is everything a collaboration should be: an incredible piece of watch history, tweaked for the modern enthusiast, and sized for everyday adventure.

“I’m really proud to partner with Hodinkee on this special edition of the SUB 200T Army. They’ve supported DOXA for years, helping share our dive-watch story with collectors around the world, so this collaboration feels especially meaningful. I’ve always believed the best watches carry a story you can feel on your wrist. The Army was born from a military brief, made in small numbers, and became one of the most sought-after and elusive references in our history, which is exactly what makes it so compelling. Creating this limited edition for Hodinkee felt like the perfect way to celebrate this iconic design and showcase its unique place in DOXA’s history.” – Jan Edöchs, CEO of DOXA

Pricing And Availability

A total of 250 pieces of the DOXA SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee Limited Edition have been produced in partnership with DOXA. The watch is available for purchase exclusively via Hodinkee’s retail partner, Watches of Switzerland, for $2,000 USD.

Technical Specifications

Conclusion

The DOXA SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee Limited Edition is one of the more meaningful collaborations in recent dive watch history. By combining DOXA’s legendary military heritage with Hodinkee’s enthusiast-driven design approach, the two brands create a timepiece that honors both the original 1969 Army and the modern collector’s desire for wearability and everyday versatility.

The 39mm SUB 200T case, the textured tan and grey dial, the anodized aluminum bezel with Old Radium Super-LumiNova, and the dual-strap system are not mere specifications — they are deliberate choices that root the watch in military history while celebrating the partnership between DOXA and Hodinkee. The limited availability of 250 pieces also reflects a restrained approach to distribution, positioning this as a true collector’s item rather than a mass-produced collaboration.

For more information, please visit the official Hodinkee and DOXA websites.

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