NOMOS Orion Gold Neomatik “New Black” Brings Gold Into The Dark

The refined Orion takes on a warmer character with an 18kt gold case, deep black dial and the slim DUW 3001 automatic calibre.

Few watches demonstrate the principles of a dress watch as clearly as the NOMOS Orion. Since its introduction, the collection has been defined by restrained proportions, curved lines and an uncluttered approach to dial design. With the Orion gold neomatik new black, NOMOS Glashütte takes that formula into a darker and more luxurious direction, pairing an 18kt yellow gold case with a deep black dial and delicate golden details.

The result is a particularly restrained interpretation of the Orion, where the precious metal is not used to make the watch feel ostentatious, but instead adds warmth to an otherwise minimalist design. Developed around NOMOS’s characteristic approach to clarity and proportion, the new edition is designed as a formal watch for occasions where subtlety matters more than visual excess.

Gold And Black

The defining feature of the new NOMOS Orion Gold Neomatik New Black is the contrast between its polished 18kt yellow gold case and galvanised black dial. The warm tone of the gold gives the watch a richer presence, while the dark dial creates a calm background for the fine golden hour indexes and slender gold hands.

Measuring just 36.4mm in diameter, the case retains the restrained proportions that have long defined the Orion. Its height of only 8.5mm is particularly notable for an automatic watch, while the 45mm lug-to-lug measurement reflects the elongated, tapered lugs that are characteristic of the collection.

The entire case is polished, reinforcing the formal character of the watch. A domed sapphire crystal protects the dial, with anti-reflective coating applied to its inner surface, while a sapphire crystal caseback provides a view of the movement. Water resistance is rated at 30 metres.

A Dial Built Around Restraint

The black galvanised dial maintains the open and carefully balanced architecture associated with the Orion. Rather than filling the surface with unnecessary information, NOMOS keeps the focus on the hours and minutes, with the small seconds integrated discreetly at 6 o’clock.

Golden hour indexes provide a subtle contrast against the black background, while the slender gold hands continue the restrained visual language of the collection. The absence of a date and the limited number of indications allow the dial to retain the sense of space that has become one of the Orion’s defining characteristics.

This simplicity is particularly effective against the polished gold case. Instead of relying on elaborate decoration, the watch creates its character through proportion, surface contrast and the relationship between the warm metal and the deep black dial.

The Slim DUW 3001

Inside the Orion gold neomatik new black is the DUW 3001, NOMOS Glashütte’s slim automatic calibre developed and produced in-house in Glashütte, Germany. At only 3.2mm thick, the movement plays a central role in achieving the watch’s remarkably slender 8.5mm overall profile.

The calibre measures 28.8mm in diameter and contains 37 jewels. It operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of up to 43 hours. The movement is also equipped with the NOMOS Swing System, the manufacture’s regulating system developed to support precision.

The sapphire caseback allows the movement to remain visible, reinforcing the connection between the watch’s restrained exterior and its technically sophisticated interior. Its slim architecture is particularly well suited to the Orion, where maintaining a graceful profile is just as important as the mechanical specification itself.

A Dress Watch In Its Purest Form

The Orion gold neomatik new black is completed by a black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap with remborde construction and an 18mm lug width. Its understated appearance complements the black dial while allowing the 18kt gold case to remain the central visual element.

At €12,600, the new Orion occupies a very different space from NOMOS’s more accessible steel models, but its purpose is equally clear. This is a dress watch built around traditional proportions and precious materials, interpreted through the distinctly modern restraint that has become characteristic of NOMOS Glashütte.

The Orion gold neomatik new black does not attempt to make gold louder. Instead, it uses the material to add warmth to one of NOMOS’s most minimalist designs, creating a watch where the richness of the case and the depth of the black dial are allowed to speak for themselves.

Technical Specifications

For more information, please visit the official NOMOS Glashütte website.

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